Category Archives: Dorie Greenspan

Potluck Thursday: Babette Bakes Brioche

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I’ve decided to use Thursday to introduce you to some of my old, favorite posts, posts I made long before anyone was reading. I still think I was particularly clever and funny in this ode to brioche, Dorie Greenspan’s brioche, to be exact…It’s long because I’m putting three posts together…but then again, making brioche was a long process, too. If you make it to the end, you might notice I froze a part of the cinnamon roll…that my daughter discovered and thought was BAD (it was unbaked!) and she PITCHED. It took me a long time to get over that… (Originally posted April, 2008)


Day 1: The Marathon Begins…
Dorie Greenspan is a delight. I had the incredible good fortune of meeting her recently at The Greenbrier. In fact, I had the funny and near-silly experience of sharing a bar of Vosges Chocolate Bacon bar with her. Picture about 10 avid food writers, food literature readers, food magazine editors…I think it was Dorie who did the honors of breaking it into pieces for everyone to experience. It was passed around the table like a communion plate. We all took a shard of chocolate…Then someone read the near zen-like instructions from Vosges on how to enjoy the chocolate…At one point we all had our eyes closed…no sounds were being made…and then you couldn’t keep us quiet…because of COURSE we all had opinions. (For the record, we didn’t like the chewy texture of the bacon left in our mouths when we let the chocolate melt first…some of us liked it more when we chewed right into it, releasing salty, smoky, sweet all at once…)

But this post isn’t about the chocolate. It’s about my discovery: Dorie’s Brioche. I got the lowdown from the insiders: The Brioche is to die for. And the sticky pecan buns–to die for a second time…So when my signed copy of Dorie’s Baking: From My Home to Yours arrived in the mail (no way I was dragging those pounds and pounds of books home on the plane…), I had to get started on the brioche.

I knew enough that the process would be easier if I made the dough the day before…Clever me: I’ll throw it together at 10 PM and get it right into the fridge. Mmmhmmm.

Like any bread, the ingredient list is short. Yeast, water, milk, flour, salt, sugar, eggs and butter. Lots of butter. But it is lovely. Once again, Kitchenaid comes to the rescue. When discussing this with Dorie, her first question was: Do you have a mixer? Apparently her first experience was with this dough, a wooden spoon and her aching shoulders. At any rate, it starts as an ugly, mealy dough.

Then the eggs go in and it looks a bit better. And then you start beating the butter in, about 2 tablespoons at a time. Here’s me holding the mixer to keep it from walking itself off the counter as it works that dough…
When all is said and done, you are left with a glossy, silken mass of dough.
It is gorgeous (I happily had about 1/2 pound of lovely, yellow Irish butter on my counter to use here…)

Oh, back to my cleverness…First punch down: after one hour. Then every 30 minutes or so FOR THE NEXT TWO HOURS. Until it stops rising. And THEN you get to go to bed…I mean and THEN you get to put it in the fridge (and go to bed…)

It will be a late night…This last shot is of the dough rising on the back porch, where it’s warmer.
Just did the first punch down..The dough is just so nice to touch…Do you think anyone else is out on her balcony punching down brioche dough? Now it’s 12.43 a.m. Do you know where your brioche is? 

 Day 2
I woke at 7.15. Visions of brioche and pecan sticky buns by way of Dorie Greenspan’s Baking: From My Home to Yours invaded my mind…I knew I had a lunch to go to with a food professional, and I have a feeling she’s bringing me some farm-fresh eggs. I don’t want to show up empty handed. Brioche will be my gift.(What? What diet?)
 
So, I was anticipating a sticky mess–but I forgot what butter does in the fridge…it hardens. So the dough was extraordinarily easy to handle. I divided it. Half is for a loaf, the other half for sticky bunAnd I divided the sticky bun dough in half again, making 8 today, then rolling the other half for the freezer. One day I’ll be able to take that little spiral out of the freezer at 10 p.m. and wake up to bake fresh brioche sticky buns. I am wonder woman, I am Supermom.

Let’s see. The sticky buns go in about an hour and 45 minutes after prepping. The loaf, about 2 hours later…Look at my results…

And I will vouch for the taste (hey, it’s in the job description: eat). A big complaint I had with a batch of sticky buns I made relatively recently was that the bread part itself was leaden. Why bother with that gooey goodness if the bread is like a rock? Well, this brioche sticky bun recipe absolutely knocks that problem out of the park. They are melt-in-your-mouth, buttery lightness. I’ve eaten half of one bun. 7 1/2 brioche pecan sticky buns are now staring me in the face. I’m watching out the window for my neighbor to come home so I can give her some (my town is such a pain. All the women are on “social x-ray” diets, to borrow that phrase from Tom Wolfe. But at least my neighbor has two little girls…)..then I’ll be able to take a couple to the woman I’m meeting for lunch…then if I’m really inspired, I’m going to drive to Boca to deliver the remaining few to the great people at JES Publishing/Florida Table offices. They’ll help me salvage my own nutritional crisis…

On to the brioche loaf…
Day 3. The Loaf

Wow. It was one baking morning. As noted below, after an early start, I had the loaf rising and the sticky buns rolled, cut and rising by about 7.45 a.m. The sticky buns were a definite success.

I did as I was told–egg wash, baked at 400. I cannot believe how lovely this turned out. As I said elsewhere, every time I make bread–even something that sounds as daunting as brioche–I wonder why I don’t do it more often. Sure, this brioche recipe has 12 ounces of butter in it (that means the little loaf has half that–6 ounces..I started slicing very thin slices once I realized that…), but that’s the only expensive ingredient in it…even a plain, Publix baguette costs me $1. I’d say the extra bit of money for this particular loaf? Worth it.

The bread is so rich–you SO taste the butter–I am happy eating it all by itself. A brioche purist, that’s me. I could picture it with some bitter orange marmalade, though…Or I’d like to try the bostock Dorie mentions…spread stale brioche (who gets a loaf to last til it’s stale?) slices with almond cream, sprinkle with sliced almonds, bake until the almond cream is puffy and hot.

But I don’t think it will last long enough.

Day 4: Definition of Brioche
Brioche, noun. (bree-osh) Butter held together by bits of flour, yeast and egg.
When I toasted a slice this morning, it sizzled all on its own.
That’s all. Just an observation.

TWD: Chocolate Bread Pudding

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I did it again. I made bread pudding for someone who “never liked bread pudding before” and guess what? Now she likes it. Or she likes Dorie Greenspan’s Chocolate Bread Pudding, at least–this week’s entry in the Tuesdays with Dorie saga.

Here’s the beauty of this dessert: It’s extremely easy. There’s not too much bread, so you get some custard separate and apart from the bread. AND you bake it in a water bath, which keeps the custard from becoming a tough pudding–it’s silky smooth.

I made this as dessert for the Greek Easter Dinner I went to (see the blog post on Greek Easter Bread below)-okay, so it was a bread heavy contribution I brought, but all is fair in war and Tuesday with Dorie baking.

It is so delicious. I baked in a glass dish as suggested…I would have loved something smaller but deeper so I’d get even more custard to bread ratio in the finished product…I also wish I’d made some vanilla custard sauce to serve with this…it was plenty tasty just as it is, but bread pudding just deserves custard sauce, right?

Happy eating, all. Visit everyone else’s TWD Chocolate Bread Pudding blogs for more sweet fun.

TWD: Chocolate Bread Pudding

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I did it again. I made bread pudding for someone who “never liked bread pudding before” and guess what? Now she likes it. Or she likes Dorie Greenspan’s Chocolate Bread Pudding, at least–this week’s entry in the Tuesdays with Dorie saga.

Here’s the beauty of this dessert: It’s extremely easy. There’s not too much bread, so you get some custard separate and apart from the bread. AND you bake it in a water bath, which keeps the custard from becoming a tough pudding–it’s silky smooth.

I made this as dessert for the Greek Easter Dinner I went to (see the blog post on Greek Easter Bread below)-okay, so it was a bread heavy contribution I brought, but all is fair in war and Tuesday with Dorie baking.

It is so delicious. I baked in a glass dish as suggested…I would have loved something smaller but deeper so I’d get even more custard to bread ratio in the finished product…I also wish I’d made some vanilla custard sauce to serve with this…it was plenty tasty just as it is, but bread pudding just deserves custard sauce, right?

Happy eating, all. Visit everyone else’s TWD Chocolate Bread Pudding blogs for more sweet fun.

TWD: Banana Cream Pie

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Hello, Tuesdays with Dorie fans. Welcome to another…Tuesday.

Hmm. Okay. Not my favorite thing, but I am committed. Because how will I ever learn to get a custard pie right? I don’t even want to TALK about the number of lemon meringue and coconut cream custards I made when I tested and developed pie recipes a couple of months ago…suffice it to say: I was reduced to tears.

But. True to form, this recipe worked like a charm. I think it could be the six egg yolks (Ya think?) I had a moment of panic when it looked curdled, but I whisked up a storm and was gifted with glossy, silky smooth custard, studded with flecks of nutmeg.

(I should add this was AFTER I burnt the first pie crust to a crisp. I was so clever–had a crust, a DORIE crust, because this is the only crust I will ever make. Ever. Again.–in the freezer. I popped it in and took a shower. Dried my hair…lotion…got something cute on…And…well, and it took longer than 25 minutes. Who knew? Guess I needed additional practice making crust. You know. In case Top Chef calls. Or Next Food Network TV Star…I won’t fail pie crust on national TV.)

Onward. I chilled the custard in a luxurious sink ice bath…took seconds. topping is easy…Glad I read how Dorie says to spoon it on and then smooth it–because you can’t exactly spread this OVER the custard.

I’m still not a banana cream pie fan, but if anyone ever asks me to make it, this is the one. Bryn declares it the best pie she’s ever tasted. G is on his second piece…me? I better go swim some more laps.Later that week: So I went away for a few days. When I came back, most of the pie was still there in the fridge, but …well, a little browner. But I wanted a sliver. I took one. And I LOVED it. The day or two in the fridge allowed the banana to ripen and the banana flavor combined with the brown sugar caramel-y pastry cream just rocks. So maybe, just maybe, I’ve become a banana cream pie liker (if not lover…)

TWD: Banana Cream Pie

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Hello, Tuesdays with Dorie fans. Welcome to another…Tuesday.

Hmm. Okay. Not my favorite thing, but I am committed. Because how will I ever learn to get a custard pie right? I don’t even want to TALK about the number of lemon meringue and coconut cream custards I made when I tested and developed pie recipes a couple of months ago…suffice it to say: I was reduced to tears.

But. True to form, this recipe worked like a charm. I think it could be the six egg yolks (Ya think?) I had a moment of panic when it looked curdled, but I whisked up a storm and was gifted with glossy, silky smooth custard, studded with flecks of nutmeg.

(I should add this was AFTER I burnt the first pie crust to a crisp. I was so clever–had a crust, a DORIE crust, because this is the only crust I will ever make. Ever. Again.–in the freezer. I popped it in and took a shower. Dried my hair…lotion…got something cute on…And…well, and it took longer than 25 minutes. Who knew? Guess I needed additional practice making crust. You know. In case Top Chef calls. Or Next Food Network TV Star…I won’t fail pie crust on national TV.)

Onward. I chilled the custard in a luxurious sink ice bath…took seconds. topping is easy…Glad I read how Dorie says to spoon it on and then smooth it–because you can’t exactly spread this OVER the custard.

I’m still not a banana cream pie fan, but if anyone ever asks me to make it, this is the one. Bryn declares it the best pie she’s ever tasted. G is on his second piece…me? I better go swim some more laps.Later that week: So I went away for a few days. When I came back, most of the pie was still there in the fridge, but …well, a little browner. But I wanted a sliver. I took one. And I LOVED it. The day or two in the fridge allowed the banana to ripen and the banana flavor combined with the brown sugar caramel-y pastry cream just rocks. So maybe, just maybe, I’ve become a banana cream pie liker (if not lover…)

TWD: Coconut Butter Thins

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Okay. As you already know if you’re reading with ANY regularity here, I. Love. Shortbread.
I love to make them, I love to eat them and now? Now I love to photograph them. Food porn, that’s what this is all about, isn’t it?

This is so similar to the brown sugar pecan shortbreads…but these are enhanced with lime–leaving flecks of green in the dough–, coriander, coconut and macadamias.

I’ll be honest. I cannot quite pick out the macadamias–so maybe I should have gone with something different, but mostly I am determined to follow these to the T. This is my learn to bake year.

Anyway. Here’s the secret of good shortbread: DON’T OVERMIX! I love the rolling out in the zip-lock…this is such a neat and clean recipe. Into the fridge overnight..bake before I head out the door, take to office, reap the reward of praise as people devour them.

My one recipe note–Dorie says they turn into something lacy. Not mine…They just turned into nice shortbreads…Nice, delicious shortbreads..Cannot complain about that!

I love coconut. I love lime. I love coriander. Those three tastes totally make this cookie for me. What if I sprinkle the macadamias on TOP of the cookies next time???

Eat up. Visit the other TWD bakers, too! Check it out. Especially check out Jayne of The Barefoot Kitchen Witch. She picked this week’s recipe–and you can find it there OR in Baking from My Home to Yours.

TWD: Coconut Butter Thins

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Okay. As you already know if you’re reading with ANY regularity here, I. Love. Shortbread.
I love to make them, I love to eat them and now? Now I love to photograph them. Food porn, that’s what this is all about, isn’t it?

This is so similar to the brown sugar pecan shortbreads…but these are enhanced with lime–leaving flecks of green in the dough–, coriander, coconut and macadamias.

I’ll be honest. I cannot quite pick out the macadamias–so maybe I should have gone with something different, but mostly I am determined to follow these to the T. This is my learn to bake year.

Anyway. Here’s the secret of good shortbread: DON’T OVERMIX! I love the rolling out in the zip-lock…this is such a neat and clean recipe. Into the fridge overnight..bake before I head out the door, take to office, reap the reward of praise as people devour them.

My one recipe note–Dorie says they turn into something lacy. Not mine…They just turned into nice shortbreads…Nice, delicious shortbreads..Cannot complain about that!

I love coconut. I love lime. I love coriander. Those three tastes totally make this cookie for me. What if I sprinkle the macadamias on TOP of the cookies next time???

Eat up. Visit the other TWD bakers, too! Check it out. Especially check out Jayne of The Barefoot Kitchen Witch. She picked this week’s recipe–and you can find it there OR in Baking from My Home to Yours.

Not the Barefoot Blogger…Goat Cheese and Tomato Tart

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Okay. So I’m not on the blogroll at Barefoot Blogging any longer, and I don’t deserve to be…somehow, cooking what they were cooking WHEN they were cooking it has eluded me. So this is unofficial, unsanctioned Barefoot Blogging…but it was such a success it deserves a post.

The choice of the week is Goat Cheese and Tomato Tart in Puff Pastry from Ina Garten. I’ve had a recipe and a half of Dorie Greenspan’s Perfect Pie Dough in my fridge for a few days and this seemed just right as a subsitution for the puff dough.

I rolled out the dough and lined 6 shallow ramekins with it–the kind usually used for creme brulee. Caramelize onion (black cast iron RULES for this). Sprinkle in grated parm. Top with herbed goat cheese (I stretched 4 ounces over 6 tarts). Top this with slices of the most beautifully ripened tomatoes (thank you, Florida!), then some very good EVOO (Badia a Coltibuono. I won’t tell you how much I paid for this, but it is WORTH it)…Basil. Salt (once again, thank you Mark from The Meadow for my sampler of sel gris). Pepper. Top all this with shards of shaved parmesan. Bake until pastry is golden brown.

Things to note about this dinner:
1. This is beautiful.
2. This is delicious
3. My kids LOVED it.
4. DH decided to eat crap at a British pub instead of this…you know, because he had homemade pizza (also with tomato and cheese) the night before. Poor him, right?

A tart, salad and a glass of crisp white wine…Lovely dinner. Try it.

Not the Barefoot Blogger…Goat Cheese and Tomato Tart

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Okay. So I’m not on the blogroll at Barefoot Blogging any longer, and I don’t deserve to be…somehow, cooking what they were cooking WHEN they were cooking it has eluded me. So this is unofficial, unsanctioned Barefoot Blogging…but it was such a success it deserves a post.

The choice of the week is Goat Cheese and Tomato Tart in Puff Pastry from Ina Garten. I’ve had a recipe and a half of Dorie Greenspan’s Perfect Pie Dough in my fridge for a few days and this seemed just right as a subsitution for the puff dough.

I rolled out the dough and lined 6 shallow ramekins with it–the kind usually used for creme brulee. Caramelize onion (black cast iron RULES for this). Sprinkle in grated parm. Top with herbed goat cheese (I stretched 4 ounces over 6 tarts). Top this with slices of the most beautifully ripened tomatoes (thank you, Florida!), then some very good EVOO (Badia a Coltibuono. I won’t tell you how much I paid for this, but it is WORTH it)…Basil. Salt (once again, thank you Mark from The Meadow for my sampler of sel gris). Pepper. Top all this with shards of shaved parmesan. Bake until pastry is golden brown.

Things to note about this dinner:
1. This is beautiful.
2. This is delicious
3. My kids LOVED it.
4. DH decided to eat crap at a British pub instead of this…you know, because he had homemade pizza (also with tomato and cheese) the night before. Poor him, right?

A tart, salad and a glass of crisp white wine…Lovely dinner. Try it.

TWD: Blueberry Crumb Cake

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This week’s Tuesdays with Dorie choice comes to us from Sihan of Beffudlement.

If there’s one thing that gets me about a cake, it’s CRUMB…crumble…you know.A great mix of butter, flour, sugar and, sometimes, nuts. Dorie’s is a simple blend (I use pecans instead of walnuts because that is what I have on hand and because I find walnuts bitter)…I like this touch: put it into a bowl and then into the fridge. I’m guessing that adds to its “shortness” when if finally gets baked.

I used frozen blueberries bec. the price of fresh was obscene. I probably used a bit extra because if I used just the pint, I would have been left with a 1/2 cup of frozen blueberries…too many blueberries never ruined anything, right?

This is another easy cake: mix wet, add dry, gently fold in blueberries (tossed with some of the flour, which helps keep the berries from all sinking to the bottom while the cake bakes). I tasted the batter and was worried there was too much baking powder/baking soda…the taste was strong…not to worry. It baked out.

I think I baked this at least…I don’t know…an hour? An hour and 5 minutes? After the debacle of my uncooked cake before, I was a bit more careful here…

It rose and rose and ROSE. This is a great cake with PLENTY of crumb, just the way I like it…This, a cup of coffee, a great Florida morning…Breakfast anyone?

See the other TWD Blueberry Crumb posts.